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Château Haut-Brion er ”slotsvinens” vugge. Det var den første Bordeauxvin, der blev solgt under slottets navn. Det sker i slutningen af 1600-tallet, hvor ejeren Arnaud III de Pontac begyndte at bruge slotsnavnet til sin vin, som han havde arbejdet målrettet på at forbedre. Han fik bl.a. bevist, at vinen kunne blive endnu bedre ved fadlagring på helt fyldte fade (for at undgå iltning), og at det var vigtigt at omstikke vinen, således at uønsket bundfald blev frasorteret.
Château Haut-Brion er i dag klassificeret som én af de fem 1. Cru slotte i Médoc’s 1855 klassifikation til trods for at slottet er beliggende i Pessac-Lèognan. Det er en overordentlig interessant vin, og en ligeså interessant historie, der præger slottet og omgivelserne hvor vinen skabes. Jean de Pontac fik i 1525 et lille stykke jord på 5 hektar i medgift. Området, som var beliggende 5 km fra byens centrum, var navngivet Haut-Brion. Hans søn Arnaud arvede slottet, og efter ham tog familien Fumel over. Joseph de Fumel blev, som en række andre slotsejere, henrette under den franske revolution på Place Gambetta i Bordeaux.
Haut-Brions nyere historie startede i 1935, hvor den amerikanske finansmand Clarence Dillon købte slottet. Hans barneban Joan tog over i 1975, og det er i dag hendes søn Robert De Luxembourg, der står i spidsen for vinfirmaet Domaines Clarence Dillon AS, der ejer Château Haut-Brion.
Vinen fra Château Haut-Brion er enestående, og én af de vine, som har det højeste bundniveau og den største ensartethed fra år til år. Selv i meget problematiske årgange er Haut-Brion en oplevelse. Og i store årgange er den uovertræffelig. Selvom den er blid som fløjl som ung, har den altid et enormt lagringspotentiale. Den er inden for de seneste år blevet en investeringsvin på niveau med de øvrige 1. Cru vine.
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BEPLANTNING
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot og 18% Cabernet Franc
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AREAL
43,2 hektar
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SLOTTETS ANDEN VIN
Clarence Haut-Brion (tidligere Bahans Haut Brion)
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EJER
Robert De Luxembourg (Domaines Clarence Dillon AS)
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LINK
One of the wines of the vintage for me and a clear contender for a 100–point score in bottle. Sticky liquorice and blackcurrant fruit on the nose, dark and slightly heady with fragrant jasmine aspects. Bright, alive, glossy and so perfectly weighted on the palate – more streamlined than LMHB at this point but still with chew and bounce. Lovely vibrancy capturing the ripe fruit of the vintage with a crisp, tense and cool base of spiced raspberries, cherries and touches of cranberry. Stony but delicately leaving a soft gravel and salinity on the tongue. Delicious – this knocks it out of the park. Adore it! A yield of 26hl/ha.
he 2025 Haut-Brion is, as usual, more reserved and austere at this stage than La Mission, unwinding in the glass to reveal notions of dark wild berries mingled with spices, pencil leaf and licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s built around a multidimensional core of fruit framed by structuring yet well-integrated tannins, delivering a notably controlled expression of power and concluding with a long, perfumed, subtly ethereal finish. While still tightly knit at this stage, it possesses considerable depth—IPT (an alaytical measure of tannic concentration) levels exceeding 100, rarely observed—that is perfectly controlled and will require extended cellaring. Recent refinements in the estate’s approach, notably in viticulture, are translating into fruit of greater balance and freshness, even under the warm, dry conditions of 2025. It stands as one of the more impressive renditions of Haut-Brion in recent years.
The 2025 Haut-Brion was picked from September 1 (slightly later than La Mission) to September 18 at 29 hl/ha. Aged in 59% new oak, this has a very pure and elegant bouquet with ebullient brambly red fruit, crushed stone, potpourri and touches of Earl Grey. Wonderful delineation and a little more refined than, say, the 2020 or 2022. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, and there is more complexity here than La Mission, more depth and minéralité. Fresh and marine-tinged towards the finish that makes you want to come back. This year, the First Growth has put a bit of distance between itself and La Mission.